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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest place achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.